Відео

Sounds like Kelly of Weber university

Outstanding videos! THANK YOU!!

Thanks Brooks!

Thanks Brook! Note: my 32mm carbs on 84 R65 have a circlip holdin the jet needle. There is a screw plug that must be removed to remove the jet needle. When I saw how easy Brandon pulled and the needle slid out, I checked the other end and noticed a slotted head. Unscrewed it. Voila the jet came out after the plug. Great that you are continuing to document your experiences and passing it on to Brandon too.

Sorry, not sure why that posted. But what I am trying to say is that a new C3 bearings have about .002 "flex" in them and when the gauge anvil strikes using one ratchet, you will flex this bearing down by this amount. I actually take the measurement from the inner race which does not flex. Due to the output shaft, I have to measure the outer part of the bearing, but I use a flashlight and the lightest touch to make sure I am not depressing the bearing. I wonder if you can comment on this.

I have rebuilt many BMW airhead transmissions for 74 - 76 model years. One question I have for you is this. When you measure the bearing surface below the measuring plate you show your depth gauge at the outer part of the bearing vs the inner race. I use the same Mitutoyo depth gauge you are using so I know that when the gauge anvil interacts with the bearing outer

bonjour , hi Mr . thanks so much for your info diffusion & your work about vidéo. have à good road ride

Brook, I have a set of 64/32/323 & 324 from an '81 R80 G/S. Is there any benefit to changing from the old style needles (with clips) and slides to the new style? Also, when, if ever, would it be necessary to replace all the jets, mixing screw and float needle? I am currently rebuilding them now. Thx.

Just bought that tool from Cycle Works (a great resource) and it worked just as you show. One note: the '78 - '80 driveshaft is similar with the spring and can be removed with the tool the same way, but the shaft is different in that there are two flats cut on opposite sides at that collar that allows it to slip through the smaller diameter swing arm. I believe that spring is the source of the nickname "rubber cow".

Great Video! I Love your Content and the Quality

Hi Brooks, do you time the yoke with the uni joint? Cheers

So articulate. And accurate.

I love this guy 🙏🏼👍🏻👌🏻

All I need to know is how much of the RT faring do I need to take off and how to replace the hydraulic damper itself. It's pretty obvious how it works but how do I get it off and back on?

Apologies for the delay. The cost on the gasket is recommended by BMW. It may or may not help but it doesn’t help. An extra step that brings me a little peace of mind. I dumped the oil every 200 miles for 1000 miles during the break in. Sitting at nearly 5,000 miles on the new cylinders and no issues. Next step is to strap on our rebuilt 40mm carbs and matching heads to make it a nearly true R100

you are a good man thank you

love the beer can solution... (as a shim) 👍

I was wondering if you could help me. I have a 77 R100S with an RT fairing on it (the previous owner was apparently converting it to an RT). This also meant he did some creative rewiring. I've been chasing a bad ground, but lately, the issue has compounded with the headlight indicator lights no longer lighting up. So I decided to pull all the wires off, clean the board, and now I want to reconnect them. Problem is... I don't really know where some go. The wiring for the blinker, for example, isn't represented on the wiring diagram I have (the left blinker has a black, orange, and light blue wire). The orange wire was clipped into a combiner (that blue plastic thing with a bit of metal in it to connect two wires) with a blue and red wire. The light blue was soldered to a blue and black. And I don't remember where the black one went. I'm autistic, and looking at the wiring diagram makes me feel overstimulated with visual input.

One of the best BMW carb rebuild video's, you kept calling fuel enrichment, choke. It is a fuel an enrichment circuit, correct ?

IS it possible to repear mono shok (r80rt monolever) ? Thanks for your videos 🤝

pojj

Very nice! I'm replacing the pushrod tube seals on my R100R and this video covers that too.

So helpful. As a new vintage BMW Airhead owner, your videos help me gain enough confidence to play it by myself.

Hi Brook, a basic question if I may, you are so experienced I trust your view. Servicing my ‘80 R100RS on the garage floor on centre stand is getting more difficult. Is it OK to lift the bike with a scissor lift, taking the weight on the oil sump?

Great video 👊👍🇧🇷

I did not lock my crankshaft in place. By both cylinders and heads are in still place - will my crankshaft still be able to move? I just took it off last night - it does not look like the crankshaft moved at all. I did put the bolt in place after watching the video.

Excellent methods, tips and sound advice. Thank you for putting this together for us all!

Deutsches Motorrad auf Englisch kommentiert geht garnicht 😢😢😢😢

Very nice instructional video. Thank you for sharing this

You were lucky with your cylinder. I recently pulled one off of a K 75, which was so badly corroded that the piston was frozen into the outer housing. It’s resisted every attempt from hammering to pressing in a vice to the point where we just ordered a new master cylinder. By the way, I keep a handlebar mounted MC to use in pumping out caliper pistons and stubborn MC pistons. It usually works unless totally corroded.

Hi there Brook, thank you for all your great instructional videos. I may have to remove the front engine cover on a R100RS. Apart from the grille, what else do I need to remove to get at the front engine cover - both lower fairing panels, and the oil cooler? Can the oil radiator be dropped down or does one have to remove it completely?

Do you know where can you but the crash bars? Great video.

Do you have a video about how to set the eta brakes?

Fantastic tip on the cut-down 6mm allen wrench.

Thank you very much!! I check the circuit following your instructions and made a bypass... The neutral light is on and I can use de starter ... Do I need to dissamble the gearbox to change the bulb ? Because the space is very narrow in my R100GS PD 1993 😢

This is perfect, helping a buddy take his R65 apart and this helped a lot with the full understanding.

❤ all the help i get from you! Thanks for you

The clearest video, thanks. I have an R80 ST with a Sibenrock 1000cc conversion with dual sparks.

1983 R/100, the Gen. light stays on so the bike will only go as far as the battery can take it since it isn't charging. Could you give suggestions on what issues to trace please?

Hi Brook. This video is helpful--thanks. Where can i purchase replacement copper rivets and the appropriate tool for re-installation? Cheers, -Scott

Yeah good, but I thought you would have mentioned or checked the lifters for wear , especially for a topend build.

Thanks!

Hi Brook, got a weird one for you. Pulled the transmission out of my wifes '93 R100R to lube the splines. Once removed, I noticed the rear main was leaking, so I replaced that and the oil pump o-ring along with o-ring on the piece that fits into the flywheel. I installed and torqued the new bolts into the flywheel just fine, and as I was torquing the 6th of 6 new clutch assembly bolts and washers to 15 ft lbs, the thread on one of the welded nuts on the flywheel gave way. All the locating pins seemed to be inserted into their respective holes in the flywheel, and all clutch bolts threaded right in and torqued just fine (except the 6th). Any idea what might have caused this? Thanks very much for taking the time to produce these repair videos! Brian

Very good video! Straight to the point!! Thanks for sharing

WE AWARE: I purchased 3 of the kits in this helpful video shown as Brembo part number 98.5032.50. They did not fit my 1983 R100RT, the kit shown is the 32mm seals and such. FYI

Very very nice tutorial : step by step, I could easily see what to do with my calipers. Thanks.

Excellent ❤❤❤

Great video! Can you tell me what connects to the spade terminal at 3:25? Kinda stuck with mine 😅 thanks a lot!

This is going to sound like the dumbest thing, but I just took mine out from my frame as I do a restoration, and I could never get it to work. But no one ever showed me that the way that it works is that you're physically supposed to push the entire lock into the protrusion! I always assumed there was supposed to be something that turning the key in the lock cammed internally at the end I couldn't see and put the projection into the fork stem. I had no idea the entire lock was physically supposed to slide in that slot. This is probably one of those incredibly obvious things that everyone but me always knew and I just learned it now 😂 finally I understand how this works and it must have been working on mine but I never pushed in 🤣

Would a hex bolt be ok for the flange? Thinking of remowing my swingarm to repaint it, tried to brush but not 100 percent satisfied with the result. Thanks for great content.